Guide to Cycling the Shimanami Kaido

If you’re one of the millions of biking enthusiasts around the world, then you’ve most probably heard of Shimanami Kaido in Japan.  But in case you have not, then you are in for a treat because we are about to tell you all the reasons why you should put it on your cycling bucket list. 

The Shimanami Kaido is a highway that connects Onomichi (Hiroshima) and Imabari (Shikoku) that is also a 70 kilometer-long bike route that takes cyclists across over six islands, providing picturesque views that are both works of nature and manmade. The distance might seem daunting but it can be completed in a day. Although, it is highly recommended to spread out your cycling adventure in multiple days so you can take it slow and enjoy your ride through charming towns, citrus groves, historical temples, and the stunning scenery of the Seto Inland Sea! Read up to find out how you can plan a cycling trip to the famous Shimanami Kaido and all the things that await you on this ride.

There are several ways to reach Shimanami Kaido by public transportation, with many visitors traveling from Tokyo and Hiroshima. 

It takes around 4 hours to reach Shimanami Kaido from Tokyo via JR trains. Start by taking the JR Tokaido Sanyo Shinkansen from Tokyo Station to Fukuyama Station, then transfer to the JR Sanyo Line towards Mihara or Itozaki, and continue to Onomichi Station. 

Traveling to Shimanami Kaido from Hiroshima is a lot quicker and only takes around an hour. Start by taking the JR Tokaido Sanyo Shinkansen from Hiroshima Station to Fukuyama Station, then transfer to the JR Sanyo Line towards Mihara or Itozaki to Onomichi Station.  

To find out more about JR passes, we have a guide to JR Pass in Japan that will come in handy for your upcoming biking trip!

Since you’ll be spending most of the time outdoors during your Shimanami Kaido cycling trip, it is highly recommended to visit during Spring (March to May) or Autumn (September to November) when the weather is mild, cool, and pleasant! 

If you’re not bringing your trusty bike, there are places on the island where you can rent wheels. There are two bicycle rental systems along the Shimanami Kaido: the regular rental system with around 10 terminals along the route and the newer one operated by Giant, a bicycle manufacturer, with two terminals. Tourists can rent their bikes at one end of the route and drop them off at the other end - for Giant renters - whereas the regular system allows tourists to stop at any terminal to drop off their bikes and take a bus for the rest of their journey.

You can read more information about the rental systems through their websites as well as make reservations online through there: regular rental system via Shimanami Japan website and the Giant rental system website.

Now that you’ve sorted out where to rent your bikes, you can officially start your Shimanami Kaido cycling adventure! The standard route consists of taking a ferry, crossing six bridges, and biking through the islands of Mukaishima, Innoshima, Ikuchijima, Omishima, Hakatajia, and Oshima. If you want a hassle-free trip, you can always book a Shimanami Kaido cycling tour with a local expert to guide you on your biking adventure!

Many tourists start their journey in Onomichi as this quaint old little town is scattered with guesthouses, dining options, and shops that offer bicycle repairs and rentals. Onomichi is also known for its cobbled streets and its many temples – with a temple walk that connects 25 of them and will take you back in time.

If you don’t have the time to take the temple walk, then you should at least visit the Senkoji Temple. Built in 806, it is considered the most important temple on the island as this is where one can find the Tama no Iwa, which is a large rock that is believed to contain a legendary and powerful gem that can light up the night. The temple also has an observatory park where you can get a bird’s eye view of the town, sea, and the Shimanami Kaido. 

Once you’ve explored the charming town of Onomichi – and rented your bikes, of course – it’s now time to actually bike! You can start off your journey by taking a ferry from Onomichi to Mukaishima, which only costs 110 Japanese Yen (payment by cash upon boarding). While there is a bridge that connects Onomichi and Mukaishima, the roads are quite narrow and might be a little dangerous for bikers so it is highly encouraged to take the ferry instead.

Here you can find the famous “blue line” on the road that you can follow around the island and officially mark the start of your biking trail! From here, you’ll shortly cross the Innoshima Bridge which will take you to the next island.

The island is known for the Suigin Castle and its famous treat – the Hassaku daifuku! If you’re not aware of what a daifuku is, it’s a Japanese mochi delicacy that’s usually filled with fruits or other sugary filling such as chocolate, red bean, and custard. As Innoshima is known for producing Hassaku oranges, the Hassaku daifuku is brought to life, which is a mochi treat filled with tangy oranges! Definitely a must-have for an energy boost during your cycling trip!

If you’re interested in history, the Suigun Castle now stands as a museum of the Murakami Suigun, an armed naval clan in the area back in the mid-14th to the 16th century, where visitors can see weapons and other artifacts that belonged to the clan. If you’re down for a sweet treat (honestly, who isn’t?), then a quick stop to Hassakuya is a must! The store is located near the Innoshima bridge, providing the perfect recluse where you can enjoy sweet treats and coffee while looking over the waters of the Seto Inland Sea. While there are many delicacies at the store, be sure to buy the Hassaku daifuku  as this is what’s popular on the island!

The next island on the route is Ikuchijima, famous for interesting temples, cafes, and lunch spots. A must-visit is the Kosanji Temple, a buddhist temple founded in 1935 that features replicas of Japan’s famous shrines and temples. Visitors can also check out the Cave of 1,000 Buddhas, an underground path filled with thousands of Buddha sculptures, and the Hill of Hope above the complex which features sculptures of white Italian marble.

If you want to take a break from biking, Ikuchijima island is also perfect for a quick rest since the island boasts a number of restaurants and cafes where you can get some food to recharge!

The Tatara Bridge connects the islands of Ikuchijima and Omishima, which is the largest island along the Shimanami Kaido. One of the must-see spots on the island is the Oyamazumi Shrine, which is dedicated to the gods of sailors and soldiers. Over the years, military leaders have left their swords and armors here as offerings, making the shrine home to Japan’s largest collection of samurai-era military artifacts.

If you’re staying the night at Omishima, you should check out the Omishima Brewery near the Oyamazumi Shrine for a refreshing drink! Always remember, you should never drive under the influence and that applies to cycling too! 

If you’re visiting during the cherry blossom season, the Hirakiyama Park on Hakatakima Island is perfect for some sakura viewing. While the island has a shrine, Kitaura Hachiman Okami shrine, said to be the oldest one on the island, you might now be looking for something more unique after having passed through many temples and shrines in the previous islands! Thankfully, Hakatajima is known for salt production and here you can try a Hakata salt-flavoured ice cream. It may sound odd, but you can never go wrong with a sweet-salty treat!

You are now down to the last island on the route! If you have some time to spare before crossing the Kurushima Kaikyo Bridge from Oshima to Imabari, you might want to visit the Yoshiumi Rose park where you can see thousands of roses during the months of May to December when the flowers are in full bloom!

The city of Imabari marks the end of your biking adventure! End it on a high note and celebrate by digging in a bowl of fried pork and eggs over rice - a local favorite! This is also the best place to go on a mini food trip (especially after burning all those calories from biking!) as the city is popular for fresh seafood. You can also head to the hot springs for a much-deserved pampering after biking over 70 kilometers of road!

Another unique and interesting fact about Imabari is that it is known for its high-quality towels. There is actually an Imabari Towel Museum where it showcases the history of towel-making in the region and visitors can experience an extensive selection of towels!  

While the Shimanami Kaido is already a big adventure on its own, don’t miss the chance to explore other parts of the country too! Whether you’re traveling to Onomichi from Tokyo or Hiroshima, both cities have plenty of fascinating sights and activities to enjoy. So read up and get ready for your trip of a lifetime!